Monday, December 13, 2010

Ruta de la Independencia

Hello all, how are you doing? I hope all is excellent, or, as is said in Spanish, that everything is going at you well.

I just got back from a fascinating and incredible trip around the center and west of México, really life changing. I wasn't going to go becaus I thought that the cost was prohibitive, but at the last minute I was able to get permission and pay on the day of the trip, thanks to having worked all summer. Also, how many more times am I going to be in México with a planned trip offered to me? Great decision, eventually. I'll separate the story into paragraphs that represent each day. Also, the names of the places are links to more information about them.

The first day, we went to a city called Morelia, in the southwest part of México in the state of Michoacán. It's a really beautiful city, very artsy feeling and with a really cool central park with performances by street clowns right next to a towering and beautiful cathedral. Lot's of old brick streets and gardens and the like, all surrounded by arcade-like arcs with stores and restaurants inside, really magnificent. We hung out in the park and played soccer on the grass, as became tradition to do in every spot, historic plazas, parks, the side of the highway, etc.

The next day we went on a bus tour of the city, and got to hear the history (and herstory) of the city, which was related to the general theme of the trip, called the Independence Route, essentially the destiantions were chosen for having played a part in the indpendence movement of México, the the early 1800s. We saw houses of famous people, beautiful churches, and got to know the city a little better. We took a picture on a monument with all the different students holding their flags, a Rotary tradition, but almost got in trouble by the infantry group practicing nearby, definitely an adventure. We also went to the nearby Museo del Dulce,of candy museum, dedicated to the traditional one of Morelia, ate, a jelly paste type thing made from fruits, delicious. After that we went to a small island in the middle of a lake named Janitzio. I have no idea how they found the place, but it's essentially a mountain in a lake, distinguished by a monstrous statue of José Morelos, a hero of the Independence movement, with his fist raised on the peak of the island. We walked up the entire way, through markets and restaurants, and really, I emphasize the up, because it was like climbing up the stairs at Albright Knox for half an hour. When we reached the top, we found out tht the statue was hollow, and we climbed up a spiral staircase all the way to the fist; the view was spectacular. I've become quite accustomed to mountains all around, I think that Buffalo will seem quite flat upon my return. After a while of souvenir browsing and eating whole fish for lunch we headed back to Morelia to eat dinner and sleep.

In the morning, we shipped out and head to Guadalajara (count the a´s), the second biggest city in México with about 4 million people. We arrived and ate in a restaurant with mariachis, really neat, in a strictly pedestrian area with a lot of art shops and clothes stores. We of course broke out the soccer ball played for  while in the street while waiting for the food. The food was delicious, and all the more interesting with th fscnating group of students. For example, my closest friends are from Denmark, Taiwan, New Brunswick, Germany and Brazil. It will probably sound amazing to you guys, but I've become kind of used to it haha. After the lunch and subsequent wandering in the streets, we headed for the hotel. When we arrived, I was awestruck. Right next to the enormousGuadalajara Cathedral, it was a really regal hotel, the Hotel Frances. It's really easy to overlook México, but I've encountered some of the most functional and interesting cities in my life in my time here. They still collect the garbage, people ride bikes, people move there and love it. Fascinating to open a new place in your mind. In a shopping plaza, my friend from Taiwan, Yang, and I happened upon a guy from Seatlle who lives in Guadalajara with two Taiwanese friends that he met when he traveled there to learn Chinese. Before coming to México, I would have said "Why don't you live in New York or London or Toronto?", but now I see that it really is a viable place to live, not just to visit. We spent a good part of the night on the roof patio, looking at the entire city at night, really beautiful.

In the morning, we walked through pretty much the entire downtown, a really cool sight because every person was walking around carrying their flag. I, and my companion American from where else but Cooperstown NY, prudly marched round with that Old Glory. The Canadians picked up a few friends, tourists from Alberta hahahaha. While walking, a guy working in a restaurant saw us and asked why we were carrying "that garbage" and told us that we should put it away, referring to the flag. More on that later. W visited the Hospicio Cabañas, whichis a former orphanage that is now a monument and now has murals painted all around the inside, done by José Clemente Orozco, really stunning. Something interesting about the place is that almost all of the orphans received the name "Cabañas" if the didn't have a last name. We also stpped in the Teatro Degollado to see the rehearsal for a ballet performance. After that we played soccer with t shirts for goals in the Plaza de la Liberación, until the police said that it wasn't appropriate. You usually listen when every cop has an AK. On the walk back to th hotel, the same guy started talking t us again, and I ended up asking him if he had ever lived in the USA, and whyhe had such a problem. He responded by saying that he was born in Buffalo, NY! I immediately started laughing and showed him my Bills hat, and after that he wasn't so confrontational, but still maintained a chilly attitude. Buffalo connections 1, silly angry people 0. After that, we headed out to Guanajuato, my personal favorite stop. Imagine a city completely composed of alleys, and you've got the general idea. We ate in th hotel the set out walking through the main street until we met up with a group of "estudiantina", essentially minstrels who give a tour of the city, "callejoneadas", which translates to "things that happen in the alley". Absolutely magical, we got told various stories and songs while walking through a labyrinth of alleys at night, we all felt mesmerized. I could get lost in that city for weeks and be completely content. The tour lasted about two hours, and later we headed to a tiny nightclub on the third floor of an apartment building and danced for hours. There we met a couple from Orange County, and I immediately thought of this song and explained the contrast to everyone else. Great great night.

The following day we hiked around and arrived at the museum of the Mummies of Guanajuato, unique because they were preserved without and process, just naturally. Somewhat horrifying, but nonetheless interesting. Usually mummies are somewhat covered up, and are cool in a mysterious way, but these guys were all there exposed. We then departed for San Miguel de Allende, a small but interesting city on the way to México City. I highly recommend that you read the page, because it finally gave me an answer as to why I saw probably half the population had light skin, and license plates from Texas, Massachusetts and Pennsylvania. We ate in a small but delicious all you can eat place, where my Danish friend Rasmus and I got to know the owner, whose favorite international soccer team was Denmark, go figure. The world is full of connections if you look for them. We wandered around and snatched some souvenirs and headed back to the bus. We started to play soccer, and it was a really good game (we usually play Europe vs. World) until a police truck came in, tires squealing, to come yell at us that a parking lot is for parking, nothing else, even though the wasn't a single car. I suppose it's good that they have time on their hands. We hopped on the bus and headed to Querétaro, really neat city. That night, we went out to eat in a beautiful plaza, and later to a bar where we danced until about 3 then walked back to the hotel through gorgeous streets.

We woke up, and headed to a hill where the entire city was visible, amazing view, especially the aqueduct that was constructed (according to legend) because a city official fell in love with a nun, and because of her oath, instead of a relationship requested that he build an aqueduct to the convent, and it still stands. We then got on the good old bus and set out for México City, a gargantuan city of 20 million that is utterly amazing. That night we didn't do much but stay in the hotel and explore, which rendered the treat of the rooftop pool, and the view was breathtaking. Seeing the planes that fly ever so close to the skyscrapers made all of us think of our arrivals, interesting to talk about with Ida and Kia from Denmark and Gabby from Canada. We did go out for a bit, and walking around in what seemed like a central plaza to me eventually made me realize that there are hundreds just like it all over the city, which was definitely humbling. Méxican cities grow out rather than up like New York or Chicago, so it's massive when you have 20 million folks there. Lot's of time in the bus this day, that's why it's short haha.

After a refreshing sleep, we arrived in the /Zócalo, or central square of México City. Breathtaking. Traditional Spanish city planning calls for one in the center of the city, and the one in DF is the most famous. We checked out Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral, which is in fact sinking because it's built on an ancient lake, National Palace, and walked around the zócalo for a while. In the middle of everything is a flagpole with the largest Mexican flag that you will ever se. Magnificent. We walked through a couple streets and eventually arrived at the Palacio de Bellas_Artes, but unforunately could only stay for a little bit, but the murales there in the traditional Mexican style are stunning, especially this one. Also to the Castle of Chapultepec, and at some pint we went to Six Flags in México City, I can't remember when haha. We got back to the hotel and threw a great party on the top floor where we ate and danced at took pictures and talked and took in the view, a really nice time with fascinating people.

The next day we went to Teotihuacan, one of the places that I have wanted to go to since I was a little kid. I couldn't do it much kustice with words, check out the hpotos, but I can tell you that it is powerful, the word that kept coming into my head. You feel a certain power that is unimaginably old and deep, and it's truly a privilege to walk through it and know that since 200 BC there have been people walking around in there, worshipping and living. Beautiful to behold but also a little scary. However, with reason there were so many tourists meditating in a ccircle. Although it appears hippie, it's understandable. We climbed to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun and got an amazing view, and ran into some seismologists that were taking readings on the top and the bottom, and they told us some interesting stuff about the mysteries of the place. I would highly highly recommend going if you can, I know I'm going back with some friends or family. We tried to take one of the photos with all of the flags, but the security folks told us that it's not permitted to display national symbols inside the complex, and it's understandable. After a good amount of time spent there, we headed back to Puebla, and had a Posada in the house of one of the Rotary people, a great end to a great trip

Thanks for reading, and please forgive any spelling errors, the e , a and o keys are especilly troublesome on this keyboard. Some photos of the trip and others from México are down there, I hope that they work as links, if not, I'll put some more up on the blog. Much love, hope everyone is doing well!


Thursday, December 9, 2010

Reflections

I really haven't been maintaining this thing...

Hello world!
Here I am going to finally describe my typical day, which is appropriate because I'm about to change families this weekend! I will definitely put some more stuff on here when i'm done packing, because i have various thoughts to share.

At around 7 I get woken up by my alarm, a soothing tone from my cell phone that suddenly becomes horrible when applied to waking purposes, make some attempts at pushups and get in the shower. After that, I get all my toiletry whatnot in order, smell nice and put on my sparkly smile and exit my room. From there, I get to breakfast, usually cereal, and get to look out the window at the sun coming up over the buildings and backyard fence.
After that, it's time for the ride to school with my host mom, who also works at the school. It's about 15 minutes, and is always nice for chating about random stuff, as descriptive as that is. I attribute a lot of my practice to these chats. We get to school at about 8, and we go our separate ways. Due to the fact that puebla is about 2000 meters up in the air, it is damn cold in the mornings. Adding to the issue, there are no heating systems in buildings. I sit in school and do the various things that there are to do in terms of schoolwork, watch videos and movies on my classmates' laptops, and write in my book of ideas and observations. My classes are: Biology, Statistics, World history (in English), Sports, Critical Thinking, Human Development, Literature, Accounting, something called Optativa where we don't do anything, and Orientation where they tell us about careers and such. Pretty cool stuff, but definitely difficult to sit there when there are places to explore.
After classes, on Tuesdays and Thursdays I stay for soccer practice, then take the two buses to my house; Wednesdays I go to check my PO box at the university, and Mondays and Fridays i usually have something to do otherwise. The trip from school to my house is about 30 minutes with two buses, and I love the time to reflect and all that. I take one from the school to the highway near my house then the bus that runs that highway, followed by a 15 minute walk to my house.
Pretty cool, right? i'm going to have some more down time in the future, so I will get to putting more of the stuff that goes on in my life here, I haven't really been very good at keeping in touch in that manner.
So, to close, I hope you are all well, thanks for reading! Chau, much love!

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Viajero contra turista

In being here, in a foreign land, amongst foreign people and families, I have started to realize that they are becoming less and less foreign. This leads me to my point. This is an enormous difference between a "traveler" and a "tourist".
A tourist flies into a country with a plan, a camera, plenty of sunscreen and bottled water, maps, phone numbers of hotels and travel agencies, and most importantly, a fanny pack. A tourist comes to gawk, to take pictures of themselves in front of monuments and buildings and strange people on the street. A tourist travels to look, to see, and to tell stories when they get back. A tourist, ultimately, takes from a country and sees what it has to offer, leaving nothing but some money at a souvenir shop, and eventually returning to their safe home. This sounds too critical, but you folk get my point, hopefully. Ultimately, a guest.
In contrast, a traveler comes to a country with some essentials, a camera, a return date in the future, and a will to immerse oneself. A traveler comes to observe, snap some pictures of places and people, eat at the restaurants in alleyways, make small talk with those eating. A traveler comes to form a small part of a country, to act as even less than a citizen of the country, to live there not as an obvious tourist, but from the minority instead of the visitor. A traveler is open to change and be changed by the country, to leave a small part of themselves there, not as a refridgerator magnet that says that they left their heart in Dublin, but a small piece of their mentality. A traveler internalizes the stories, and experiences. Where they are, they are.

I aspire to be like a traveler, following the idea that visiting and taking pictures is different than living with the people and going to school, following the rhythms of everyday life with my new countryfolk. Ojalá lo logre.

Monday, November 1, 2010

Sense of Wonder

I think that one thing that I keep forgetting is that sense of wonder, that sense of everything being new and interesting, and that I am really lucky and have an excellent opportunity every day.
The life of an exchange student is a strange one, to be sure. There is a line to walk between using your foreignness (?) as an excuse to act strangely, and trying your hardest to fit in with whatever group you are a part of at any given moment. After reading an excellent blog by my good friend John-Louis "Master" Pane, currently in Taiwan (Check it out here), I realized that it really is rather spoiled and selfish to feel down on myself while I'm here. Obviously almost everything in Taiwan is radically different than the US, as opposed to somewhat similar in some aspects like Mexico, there is still a lot of weight and worth that should be noted in terms of the opportunity that we have as exchange students. Even more obviously, it's difficult to adapt and live without the network of our families and friends in our home countries, but now that the seemingly infinitely long time span of a year that was initially overwhelming is turning into a rapidly diminishing window of time, I really love the fact that I'm here in a foreign country doing foreign things with foreign people that will eventually become like a second family to me.
It's all about finding the differences, taking them as they are, and retaining that curiosity that landed us exchange folk here in the first place. That being said, let it be known that the bus system in México makes NFTA look like Lufthansa Airlines, but I love it so much! pictures will follow when I find a bus of people that aren't looking at me. Chau!

Saturday, October 23, 2010

More Chapultepec!

Here are some pictures of the Chapultepec Castle (click on the link), on top of a huge hill in the middle of Mexico City. Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful.
The front gates


The upper plaza

A garden off to the side



Some murals by Diego Rivera










The grasshopper or chapulin, the emblem of Chapultepec

Friday, October 22, 2010

Recent Adventures...Sorry for the delay

Two Fridays ago, my class went on a trip to Chapultepec, a huge park, forest and castle right in the middle of Mexico City. Needless to say, it was amazing! Very strange to hear about Chapultepec for so long in Spanish class lessons and other areas, then to actually see it! Señor Hoffman, if you're reading this, you know what I'm talking about. I can't even begin to describe, but definitely click on the word Chapultepec to give some context to the photos.

In the first ones, you can see the park portion, imagine Central Park but more of an overgrown-looking forest, with elements of the National Mall; really fascinating. Half-planned and half not, it's a really interesting take on urban green space.


This reminded me a lot of the Mall

Not sure why the lake is green, but it is what it is

The view from the hill

Gorgeous

It really is a jungle


Saturday, September 18, 2010


Me munching on some chapulines

Assorted pitchers



Me working the asada



With Hidalgo himself!



A trailer with two llamas being pulled through the streets of Santana



Exactly what it appears



Note the Ñ and ¿ keys



A chile vendor at a market in Cholula


Friday, September 17, 2010

Thoughts and Observations

One thing that I think we as Americans underestimate is the wealth of México, or at least the viability of living there. One thing that has repeatedly astounded me is the stratification of society here. For example, I would drive every morning on a dirt road that made me feel carsick every morning in order to get to my brand new, still under construction private school, this one:
I don't go there anymore, but yes, I did look exactly lke that. Another example, though I don't ahve pictures right now to prove it, is my current school. It's really nice, an outdoor type campus and everything, but it's surrounded on all sides by fences and barbed wire, with some (what look like) government housing hih rises right next to it. I was walking around afterschool one day in the neighborhood and noticed that o one side of the school there is a huge shopping plaza, but on the other side, where the high rises are, there was a dead dog in the street. This is not a new concept, and is definitely prevalent in Buffalo, but it's doubly shocking to see it in a different setting.

   Regardless of the negative aspects of such stratification, however, the universities here are a lot better and more viable than many of us believe. A lot of Mexican students go to the US to study, but it seems to me that the main reason is to learn English, because the universities here are awesome. One example is Universidad de las Américas de Puebla, or UDLAP. The campus is gorgeous, and the curriculum, from what i understand, is up to any standard. Very interesting and eye-opening. I would definitely love to study here.


Friday, September 10, 2010

Updates!

Hey everyone, sorry it's been a while since I've updated this, but I guess that just means that I'm settling in!
     Since returning from Acapulco, things have been pretty tranquil, school is becoming routine, and I am feeling more at home with my family. That said, there is really nothing quite like a Buffalo fall day, make sure you enjoy that slight nip followed by some Bills games and apple cider.
     In terms of interesting things that I have done lately, I went to a fair in a nearby pueblo named Cholula, and had some delicious elote, which is corn on a stick covered wih mayonnaise and chili and lime. Excellent. The fair was really interesting too, with all the vendors selling pretty unique items from coffee mugs to earrings to coconuts with the top cut off that you could drink out of. Very cool scene. Possibly some presents too. Anyway, a really interesting take, but I couldn't help being reminded of some good old American ones, such as these http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2009/07/state-fairs/keillor-text.

I also wandered afterschool one day to find a cemita restaurant, which is a huge sandwich native to Puebla, very cool to find those local sorts of things. Other Poblano cuisine includes tacos arabes, or tacos wrapped in pita bread instead of a tortilla, and chiles en nogada, an incredibly strange looking dish that I still need to try.

One of the coolest things about the tacos, at least here, is that the meat is apparently shipped in a huge compressed stack, and the people in the restaurant cut it with a sword looking knife while it sizzles. Watching it makes the wait longer, indeed.




I'll take some pictures of the pueblo, or small town, right near me, because it's really very interesting due to the very open and entrepreneurial service sector scene, anyone with any sort of trade or skill can just rent out a little store and paint something out front and have a thriving business! An interesting departure from the prohibitive permit system.

That's all for now, but thanks for reading if you're reading, and of you're not, then you're not reading this. Regardless, enjoy!

Wednesday, August 25, 2010